Skip to content

bargaining

10-Dec-09

I bought a pair of silver earrings and necklace today on my way home from work. From a street vendor, both pieces combined cost me 20RMB, a bit less than $3. I’m pretty sure I got a great deal on them, even relative to Beijing standards, but I didn’t feel good about it as I walked the rest of the way home.

Maybe it was because the woman was from Tibet, and all her jewelry had that ethnic silver or turquoise look about them. Or maybe it was seeing the many tattered cotton layers she had bundled on so as to stay warm in the dark. Or perhaps it was hearing her resigned voice when she told me, as she gave me change, that she has never sold those earrings for less than 15RMB, and I believed her dark round eyes.

Or maybe I am just simply too easily fooled …

I felt like shit for having bargained hard, like a good Chinese person. I don’t think she was out to swindle me, and even if she were, what’s another 5 or 10RMB to me? The pieces would have still been a great deal, even if they turn out to not be silver (you never know).

Contrast this with my shopping experience a couple of weekends ago at the Silk Street Market. I have absolutely no qualms about being unreasonably cheap and treating those vendors harshly.

Silk Street specializes in counterfeit name-brands (anything from polo shirts to Louis Vuitton bags, the most popular). The asking prices are usually 10 to 15 times the actual price, and the vendors almost always get away with it. The hordes of Lonely-Planet-carrying foreigners are usually beside themselves with joy when they manage to “haggle” the vendors down to 40%, or even 50%, of the asking price.

I need to remember that most street vendors are not Silk Market vendors. Most street vendors are not locals. Most street vendors do not speak English.

Most of them are from faraway places, hoping to make some money in Beijing that they can send back home.

After sitting at home for a while, I went back out to find the Tibetan woman. I wanted to buy something else from her, at whatever her asking price.

Unfortunately, the sidewalk was completely empty already.

the notorious GFW

08-Dec-09

The Great Firewall of China doesn’t need much introduction. Western social networking in China has essentially come to a halt this year, with the most popular sites (Blogspot, Facebook, Youtube, Twitter) all behind the firewall. Of course, many continue to visit these site with VPNs and proxies, but having to turn on my VPN before watching a Youtube video is a seemingly-minor annoyance that is, in actuality, quite inhibitory.

Do I really want to watch that video? Nah, not really. How badly do I want to respond to this or that Facebook comment? Eh, I can live without.

There is not much I can add about the firewall that’s not already out there, but what I have found to be surprising and interesting are:

1) the ever-changing nature of what I can access day-to-day,
2) what sites are blocked, and perhaps more so, what sites are not.

When I first arrived in Beijing, I continued to read blogspot posts through my Google Reader. RSS feeds were, surprisingly, not behind the firewall despite the fact that the blogs themselves were. Then, last week, Google Reader threw errors for all of my blogspot subscriptions. Turning on the VPN promptly fixed the problem. I thought the censors had finally wisened up to the RSS work-around.

Except, by the next day, access to all feeds had been restored. The catch? Pictures embedded in posts no longer display in RSS feeds.

So now I also ask daily, “How badly do I want to see that blog post picture?”

Then there are the blocked sites that completely baffle me. Doing some research at work today, I wanted to access a series of .org websites, one site for each study commissioned by the EU on a specific consumer product. All of these sites were blocked. Why? I can’t come up with any logical reasoning.

Then, on the other hand, Flickr access is still free as a bird (knock on wood).

the Christmas spirit

08-Dec-09

My apartment is in 东直门 (dongzhimen), a highly commercialized, white-collar area. Raffles City is a new mall (built within the last couple of years) on the southwest corner*.

Starting last week, the otherwise quiet and low-trafficked mall is now filled with a looping playlist of Christmas carols. An impressive Christmas scene also went up in front of the mall last week (see full Flickr set). Behold:

Men working on the display last week
construction

Poor reindeers
reindeer

The completed scene
lights!

Raffles City, December 2009
raffles_city

Ahh, global commercialization.

*Locations in Beijing are usually referred to by their relative cardinal directions to other buildings/landmarks. Meeting a Chinese person yesterday for dinner, she gave me the following directions: “There is a XXX Center that is easy to spot on YYY Street. YYY Bank is west of XXX Center, and the restaurant is slightly west of YYY Bank.”

the good air, the not so good, and the bad

01-Dec-09

The view out of my office window on three different days over the last week or so:

Blue skies Beijing yesterday!
good

A so-so day last week
medium

And a day early last week … an optimist might call this fog
bad

That last one was probably the worst day I’ve seen so far. A friend said that it smelled like kerosene outside. My initial thought was that it smelled like being on the wrong side of an big BBQ grill, except there weren’t any burgers to eat afterwards.

the first faux-pas (that I know of)

25-Nov-09

I went with my boss to a meeting yesterday. After everyone came into the room (6 total–me, my boss, and the 4 people we were meeting with), it was business card exchange time.

But the Chinese actually present their business cards, rather than the American nonchalant hand-off. They use both hands to hold the top two corners of the card, face the card toward you, bow a little, and read their name out as you take the card.

It’s actually quite practical. As they say their name out for me, I can look down and read along on their card.

In the US, I mostly just shove business cards in my purse when they’re handed to me. It can then get confusing later trying to match up cards to faces. The Chinese way, I match their name to their card to their face in the presentation process.

Back to the faux-pas. Of course I had no clue that I should have been presenting my business card. For the first couple of people, I took their cards with one hand while handing them my card with the other hand. I didn’t realize the mistake until I saw my boss, an Italian, present his card with two hands.

In my haste to recover, I held out my card to the next person with both hands! Unfortunately, they held out their card for me first. Humans don’t have enough hands to present our own business card with both hands while simultaneously receiving someone else’s card.

If only I had four hands. Or better timing.

the advantages of a 2nd common language

19-Nov-09

I have two roommates, an American and a French, and we speak English in the apartment, but both roommates also speak Chinese.

Yesterday, while talking about visiting a construction site, the American asked the French if he had to wear a hard hat. The French didn’t understand the term “hard hat,” which is probably a very American English expression.

As I thought of ways to gesture and describe a hard hat, the American roommate simply said, “You know, an 安全帽.”

Literally, “You know, a safety hat.” What the Chinese would say for a hard hat.

The French immediately knew what he meant, saying “ah ah ah,” and the conversation carried on. That’s pretty cool.

a “things-i-did-today” kind of a post

18-Nov-09

I think I’ve got a morning routine down. Alarm set for 7:30, snooze until 7:50, call Victor, get dressed for work, and out the door by 8:40/8:45.

On my way to the bus stop, I buy two pork buns at the 7-Eleven (1.20RMB, or $0.17, each), which I eat while waiting for the bus. Buses are super frequent. Thus far, I haven’t had to wait more than just a couple of minutes (knock on wood).

My work computer, which I got today, is thankfully set up with an English operating system. The default input language upon startup, however, is Chinese using Windows Microsoft Pinyin input.

I switched to Google Pinyin Input on my own laptop a couple of weeks ago without much fanfare. If I hadn’t been forced to clunk my way through Microsoft Pinyin today, I may have never come to fully appreciate just how much better Google’s input engine is.

In other news:
1) The cab that I took to dinner smelled like pot. That confused me.
2) One of the more expensive menu items at the Japanese restaurant tonight was called “Pimp My Roll.”

Beijing!

15-Nov-09

And … I am in Beijing. It took about 22 hours door-to-door, Boston to Chicago to Beijing. Since the flight was arriving in Beijing in the late afternoon, I tried not to sleep that much on the plane to get started on fighting the jet lag. In turn, I got some pictures of the amazing views out the window throughout.

Lake Michiganlake_michigan

Swirling clouds somewhere over Canadaclouds

Ice crystals on the window glassice

The Arctic Oceanarctic_ocean

Somewhere over frozen Siberiasiberia

Mountain peaks, still over Russiapeaks

Some rivers coming off of the above mountain rangerivers

Gorgeous basinsflat_tops

Flatter terrain, though it’s hard to tell how flat it actually isflatter

First signs of civilization amidst all the white!civilization

Cold cold settlements in the mountains about 30 minutes before Beijingtowns

Geometric settlements in the outskirts of Beijing (terrain is now very very flat)geometric

Health inspection booths are before the immigration countershealth

Home! Looking out my bedroom windowhome

My aunt and uncle came up to Beijing from Hangzhou to meet me at the airport and help me settle in. I now have a phone, internet, and leftover Peking duck in the fridge. I also successfully took the bus to work this morning, though I had a hard time waking up on time (bye bye jet lag?).

Final note: it is COLD here. I’ve yet to derive any meaning from Celsius temperatures, but I’m told it got down to -5C yesterday. I converted that to 23F before responding, “Oh wow, that’s below freezing.” Hahaha.

I finally understand Twitter

01-Nov-09

For the first time today, I understood the usefulness of Twitter. Watching the UPA live stream this afternoon of the Brute Squad versus Capitals semifinals game, the feed died during game point. Capitals were up 14-13 … If they score they go to Finals. Brute just made a nice D, but immediately threw away the disc … and the feed just stopped. You’ve got to be kidding me, right? I nearly cried.

Thankfully, the UPA twitter feed was still working, and this tweet comes from upanats:

W SEMIS capitals 14 brute 14 softcap on, game to 16

Thank you Twitter. I finally understand your purpose.

MA Senate canditate debate

27-Oct-09

A little delayed, but here are some quick thoughts from the debate last night by the Democratic candidates looking to fill the seat left vacant by the late Edward Kennedy. I should note that going into the debate, I was a strong Martha Coakley supporter.

Overall impressions
I was most impressed with Alan Khazei, least impressed by Stephen Pagliuca, turned off by Michael Capuano, and still support Martha Coakley in the same way I blandly supported Hillary through the 2008 Democratic Presidential Primaries.

The debate was pretty much a snoozer. All four candidates spouted off buzz phrases like “create jobs for Massachusetts” and “comprehensive foreign policy” and zzzzzzzzzzzzzz. They all claim to want a public option in health care reform, and if I remember correctly, all four oppose giving illegal immigrants drivers’ licenses**. Khazei was the only one not to waffle his answer on the stimulus package. He came out strongly for it, and good for him for actually taking a position when all the others seemed afraid to.

Why I loved Khazei
Yes, Khazei was inexperienced (from the “okie” preceding his answer to the moderator’s first question to the rather long-winded lead-ins before he would answer any question), but it was exactly this inexperience that I liked. He didn’t come across as a sleazy politician. In fact, he was the only one who seemed genuinely passionate about the issues and spoke from his heart & soul rather than what he thought people would want to hear. A-

Pagliuca is a bore
The only thing I remember from his answers was something about having benefited from the Bush Administration’s tax cuts for the rich. It was to the tone of, “I would know. I’ve been there myself.” Usually, politicians utter these phrases to connect to the general public, but Pagliuca just sounded like he was gloating. “I made riches in the past decade that I shouldn’t have been able to, so now I want to change the rules and not let others make the same riches that I did.” Hmm … C for effort.

Capuano, oh Capuano
I don’t think arguing with the moderator is ever a good thing. When you’re being called out for not answering a question, raising your voice and getting defensive/angry only highlights the fact that you’re still not answering the question, and oh by the way, you’re now a sore loser. He touted his 10+ years of House experience a couple of times, but the only concrete thing he could point to having done was to bring NIH funding to the Massachusetts area. Hmm … last time I checked, scientists and doctors apply and receive NIH funding all by themselves. F for abrasive personality, and not in an adorable way like Barney Frank.

Martha is Hillary
Essentially, Martha knows what she’s doing. She knows how to play the game, for example going to lengths to thank the crowd and the organizers before answering her first question (I don’t think any of the other candidates did). She was however, also a bore. Her answers to questions were good, but sounded rehearsed and overly professional. Because no passion came through in her answers, even if she does believe in them, it just sounded like she was spewing phrases she knew the public would want to hear. B for eh.

Quote of the night
“Get the hogs out of Capital Hill!” From Alan, citing some Italian proverb in his answer to the first question.

Most surprising fact
Capuano went to Dartmouth College, and got a law degree from BU. Good for him, except at one point, he claimed to be part of Massachusetts’ working class. Hmm …

**I don’t really understand this strong objection to illegals getting drivers’ licenses. Maybe I live too gentrified a life, but but I’m not really sure what services one gains from having a license that everyone wants to keep illegals from getting. The ability to get into bars? I just don’t get it. It seems that we have so much to lose forcing illegal immigrants to drive on our roads (because you know they’re driving still) without a license or insurance. Am I missing something?